After our long trip to Kasempa the day before, we were happy to wake up, meet everyone, and explore. We walked back down the road to the main house. We missed all the beautiful scenery the night before as we came in. To the right there were houses, to the left there was just a forrest full of trees with beautiful bright colored flowers. We got to spend the morning visiting with everyone and walking about the area.
We were guests at Sly's mother's cousin's house... that sounds confusing but isn't. Alice (Sly's mother), and Jennifer (our host) are cousins. Jennifer's parents also live with them so we got to meet "Grandma" and "Grandpa" as well. My children once had a conversation via skype with those grandparents when Frank and Kennedy traveled to the village a few years ago. Technology is amazing. Jennifer works at the Mukinge Mission Hospital in Kasempa and was able to take us on a tour. She even took us to the local store and got us each a small scoop of icecream. This was the first sweet treat our kids had gotten since arriving in Zambia so they were super excited. It was vanilla icecream and it tasted just like vanilla cake frosting. Our kids loved playing with their new found cousins, especially little Sheganiah (which I'm sure I spelled wrong). They explored the property together, visited all of the baby chicks, climbed all about the maize that had been harvested and stored on the back porch, and picked and ate tons of oranges from the tree in the back.
We were guests at Sly's mother's cousin's house... that sounds confusing but isn't. Alice (Sly's mother), and Jennifer (our host) are cousins. Jennifer's parents also live with them so we got to meet "Grandma" and "Grandpa" as well. My children once had a conversation via skype with those grandparents when Frank and Kennedy traveled to the village a few years ago. Technology is amazing. Jennifer works at the Mukinge Mission Hospital in Kasempa and was able to take us on a tour. She even took us to the local store and got us each a small scoop of icecream. This was the first sweet treat our kids had gotten since arriving in Zambia so they were super excited. It was vanilla icecream and it tasted just like vanilla cake frosting. Our kids loved playing with their new found cousins, especially little Sheganiah (which I'm sure I spelled wrong). They explored the property together, visited all of the baby chicks, climbed all about the maize that had been harvested and stored on the back porch, and picked and ate tons of oranges from the tree in the back.
The area where Mukinge Mission hospital is located is referred to as the Boma. In the boma, the homes were made out of brick, there was electricity and indoor flushing restrooms. After lunch, we borrowed a car and Benson drove us farther into Kasempa to the village where the rest of Sly's family lives. You could tell that we were getting farther out away from the city. The dirt road was so rough that Benson was having to weave all over the road just to miss the potholes. Some of the holes were literally big enough to wreck the car if one of the tires had fallen in. We drove down this road for what seemed like nearly an hour while Frank was trying to remember directions to the village. All of the sudden he yells "there! turn there!". Uh, I saw no street. Benson turned the car around and headed back to where Frank was pointing. There was a slight opening in the tall grass and Frank was still pointing for us go turn into that foot path. As we started down this road...path...the car was rolling over the tall grass pushing it down and under the car. You could literally feel the tall grass running under the car. We drove like that for a few minutes and all of the sudden the road opened up into a one lane dirt road and we started to see buildings with thatched roofs. The car pulled up and I kid you not about 100 people came out to meet us.
It was a whirlwind event of being introduced to one person after another person. I tried to remember who was who and greeted each person. The village has no electricity in sight. Their houses are made of mud brick with thatched roofs. They all cook over one big fire together. The restroom is a very small grass hut with a hole dug deep into the ground. If you watch a movie about Africa, in general you will see something similar to what this village and the buildings looked like.
It was a whirlwind event of being introduced to one person after another person. I tried to remember who was who and greeted each person. The village has no electricity in sight. Their houses are made of mud brick with thatched roofs. They all cook over one big fire together. The restroom is a very small grass hut with a hole dug deep into the ground. If you watch a movie about Africa, in general you will see something similar to what this village and the buildings looked like.
His family brought us over to an open wooden structure with a dirt floor and a thatched roof. I learned later that it has been built for our arrival. We sat on these beautiful stools hand carved from wood by one of Sly's relatives. They had a ceremony where they presented us with chickens, anointed us with oil, showered us with cornmeal, and welcomed us. It was beautiful. I love all of the traditions that come with the Zambian Culture. Just the year before, Sly's family in Lusaka had thrown us a wedding celebration. Now we were being welcomed and honored again. Sly's family has welcomed the kids and I into the family from day one. I feel lucky and honored to be a part of his family. As a kid who grew up in a city, this was my first time to really be around chickens. As they presented each chicken to me, they handed them to be to hold. I've never held a chicken. To be honest they kinda freak me out. So here I was, this city kid, holding a bunch of chickens that were all pooping all over my jeans. The whole thing was pretty amusing as my lack of knowledge on how to hold all of these chickens was clearly amusing everyone who was presenting them. After visiting for a bit longer we decided to head back to the Boma. It was starting to get dark and the roads back would be more dangerous in the dark. There was a festival that we would attend the next day close to the Boma so we decided to spend the night there again.
The next day, we all headed out to the festival. It was a traditional celebration of the Kaonde people that is held once a year. The entire community comes out to celebrate. Many of the relatives from the village were there. I can only assume that they walked for hours to get there. Sly's Uncle Benson was the secretary to the Chief so he was able to get us seats up front. Others were standing in crowds or climbing trees to be able to see. The festival had performances, drumming, dancing, singing, and processions of the Chiefs and their families parading in. We stayed for hours and the end wasn't in sight so at some point (after Maddie has a nap on her Aunt Betty's back), we headed out of the arena to meet more family. They were running a station at the festival selling homemade honey beer. You bring your own cup or bottle and they will dunk it into a barrel (swooshing the bees aside) and fill it up for a set price. We walked about and bought a giant sugar cane before finding the car and heading back to the Boma.
As soon as we got back, we packed up most of our belongings and got ready to head back out to the village. We had promised to spend that night and the next day at the village with the rest of his family. We arrived after dark (after a dangerous drive... thank you Benson!) and ready for dinner. They had cooked up a goat and the rooster that I had been presented the day before with Nshima and relish. Brandon saw the other kids get called to dinner so he ran over with them. They were all eating out of one big pot on the fire. There must have been 25 little hands reaching in wildly trying to get their fair share of the food. Brandon was right in there with them grabbing at food and smiling. He was supposed to eat with us but he was having so much fun with his cousins we just let him stay. As a mom I admit I was a little bit worried about his dining choice. He is our child with a sensitive stomach in general. I had no idea what he was eating, if he had washed his hands, if the water he may or may not have washed with was ok for him to then eat with his hands. Sometimes as a parent you just have to make a judgment call. He may never have this experience again. He's a little boy, bonding with his cousins. He has struggled a bit growing up deciding how and who he identifies with. On our trip the year before he burst into tears because a child had called him American and he considered himself Zambian. He feels like he fits in just fine with his Zambian cousins curly red hair and all so we let him eat dinner in peace. Peace until he stuck his finger in the fire at least. He saw the other boys moving the firewood to keep it burning and decided to try it out. He severely burned and blistered one of his fingers. Lesson learned I guess. Wasn't a whole lot we could do for him poor little guy.
We spent the night in a family member's house. I believe it was Sly's cousin's house. There were 4 small houses (one room each) all centered around the cooking fire. There was a bamboo mat on the dirt floor for the kids and a bed made out of logs for Sly and I. It was SO cold at night. June is winter in Zambia. I packed lots of layers but clearly not enough. I hadn't really been cold in the city but man was it COLD in the village at night. We all had several layers of clothes and our winter coats on. Sly decided to sleep on the floor with Brandon to keep him warm and I pulled Maddie up in the bed with me. After an hour or so we moved Brandon up too and slept in a huddle. Sly was brave and slept on the mat on the floor reliving his childhood memories I guess.
In the morning, and I use that word loosely as it was barely light, everyone was up and moving and getting things started for the day. The kids were all sitting around the fire waiting for the water to warm up for tea. The ladies were headed to go and gather the water. Sly and the kids and I decided to go with them. I threw Maddie up on my back in the carrier and off we went down this path. The footpath led us into this maze of tall grass that was way over our head. The girls walked fast with a purpose and we followed behind. We walked, and walked, and walked. Sometimes the grass was so thick that you couldn't really see where the path was heading. All of a sudden the path opens up into a small clearing and the girls get to work filling up the big plastic jugs that they had carried with them. They are filling the jugs from a small hole in the ground. They tell me that the water is pretty high so that they can reach it with out having to get down into the hole this time of the year. They are kneeling on the ground and reaching way down into the hole trying to hold the jug under the water so it will fill up. We have walked a long way for this water so they want to make sure it's as full as they can get it. The water looks like milk, it's not clear at all and you can't see through it. I am in awe of the work these young girls are doing and at the same time slightly panicking about the water that is being used to wash our hands, cook our food, and make our tea. I was told many many years ago on my first ever mission trip that if someone offers you something, you thank them, smile and take it. I gave my children the same lecture, you smile, and do your best even if it isn't your favorite. I had quite the internal conflict going on in my head but who am I to question if their water is safe, or clean, or fit to drink. Sly got down and tried to help the ladies collect the water. He said that it was a lot harder than it looked. I still had Madison on my back and I knew if I took her down that she would want to try to get water too so we decided just to watch. The water jugs were full so it was time to head back to the village. I watched as my niece Aliness lifted it with ease and balanced it on top of her head. Curious, I tried to lift one of the other jugs. I couldn't even lift it up much less carry it back on my head for miles. These ladies do this several times a day, often with babies on their backs. We walked back through the tall grass and back to the village.
That afternoon Sly went to his sister Betty's house to assist in settling some sort of dispute. Benson had gone off somewhere with his cousins. Frank decided it was time to take the kids and I on a tour of the property and show us where they farm. There are many bee hives where the collect honey. I generally hate honey, but this honey was amazing. There were big metal drums up in trees, as we walked along on our way to the farm, we found a man had climbed all the way up and was gathering the honey out. No protective gear, just calmly gathering honey. They grow maize and have these huge round storage areas made from logs where it it piled higher than the tops of the houses. Some of the maize is sold, and some hand pounded into cornmeal to be used for making porridge and nshima. They also grow peanuts which Brandon was super excited about. Once they are collected, they are stored up on top of a thatched roof to dry out in the sun. Brandon got to go up on top of the roof and gather some to bring back with us. We also got to go out in the fields and see how they harvested mebele (a type of millet). They gave me a knife and let me try to gather it off of the stalks that had already been cut down. This city girl wouldn't last a day out there. Before heading back to the village, they gathered two eggs and gave one to each of my children. They were going to eat them for lunch, but of course Madison crushed hers within minutes.
In the morning, and I use that word loosely as it was barely light, everyone was up and moving and getting things started for the day. The kids were all sitting around the fire waiting for the water to warm up for tea. The ladies were headed to go and gather the water. Sly and the kids and I decided to go with them. I threw Maddie up on my back in the carrier and off we went down this path. The footpath led us into this maze of tall grass that was way over our head. The girls walked fast with a purpose and we followed behind. We walked, and walked, and walked. Sometimes the grass was so thick that you couldn't really see where the path was heading. All of a sudden the path opens up into a small clearing and the girls get to work filling up the big plastic jugs that they had carried with them. They are filling the jugs from a small hole in the ground. They tell me that the water is pretty high so that they can reach it with out having to get down into the hole this time of the year. They are kneeling on the ground and reaching way down into the hole trying to hold the jug under the water so it will fill up. We have walked a long way for this water so they want to make sure it's as full as they can get it. The water looks like milk, it's not clear at all and you can't see through it. I am in awe of the work these young girls are doing and at the same time slightly panicking about the water that is being used to wash our hands, cook our food, and make our tea. I was told many many years ago on my first ever mission trip that if someone offers you something, you thank them, smile and take it. I gave my children the same lecture, you smile, and do your best even if it isn't your favorite. I had quite the internal conflict going on in my head but who am I to question if their water is safe, or clean, or fit to drink. Sly got down and tried to help the ladies collect the water. He said that it was a lot harder than it looked. I still had Madison on my back and I knew if I took her down that she would want to try to get water too so we decided just to watch. The water jugs were full so it was time to head back to the village. I watched as my niece Aliness lifted it with ease and balanced it on top of her head. Curious, I tried to lift one of the other jugs. I couldn't even lift it up much less carry it back on my head for miles. These ladies do this several times a day, often with babies on their backs. We walked back through the tall grass and back to the village.
That afternoon Sly went to his sister Betty's house to assist in settling some sort of dispute. Benson had gone off somewhere with his cousins. Frank decided it was time to take the kids and I on a tour of the property and show us where they farm. There are many bee hives where the collect honey. I generally hate honey, but this honey was amazing. There were big metal drums up in trees, as we walked along on our way to the farm, we found a man had climbed all the way up and was gathering the honey out. No protective gear, just calmly gathering honey. They grow maize and have these huge round storage areas made from logs where it it piled higher than the tops of the houses. Some of the maize is sold, and some hand pounded into cornmeal to be used for making porridge and nshima. They also grow peanuts which Brandon was super excited about. Once they are collected, they are stored up on top of a thatched roof to dry out in the sun. Brandon got to go up on top of the roof and gather some to bring back with us. We also got to go out in the fields and see how they harvested mebele (a type of millet). They gave me a knife and let me try to gather it off of the stalks that had already been cut down. This city girl wouldn't last a day out there. Before heading back to the village, they gathered two eggs and gave one to each of my children. They were going to eat them for lunch, but of course Madison crushed hers within minutes.
When we got back, there were about 30 kids waiting to greet us. They all wanted to play with their new cousins. I sat down with Madison and grabbed a stick. I started carving letters into the dirt and asking her to tell me what letter it was. Soon, I had all the kids gathered around me shouting out letters as I drew them. I could see the adults sitting in a group watching me curiously. I wondered what they thought about me but I was to busy playing with all of my new found nieces and nephews to pay them much attention. Next, I started drawing squares so that we could jump through them like hop scotch. There is a lot of dirt to draw on so we had a really long jumping path. All the kids were jumping, hopping, and giggling. Not sure if they were giggling because the game was fun, or giggling because I was playing with them, but either way we were all having a blast. Then we had a contest on who could long jump the farthest marking the longest jumps in the dirt. The last game I could come up with was leapfrog. Ever played leapfrog with 30 kids at once? I have and it was pretty fantastic. They were jumping, laughing, falling over each other, and helping Madison jump when it was her turn. I think that game would have gone on forever but someone threw out a homemade soccer ball and all at once all 30 kids jumped up and ran after it. I played soccer for a while with Madison on my back all the while dodging the sun as I had forgotten to throw sunscreen in the bag.
Through out the day Brandon kept telling me that his stomach wasn't feeling so great. This is a common occurrence for Brandon so I didn't take him very seriously at first. We sat down for lunch and were served Nshima, the goat that Brandon had watched being slaughtered (he still talks about that and is sad for the goat), and field mice. This was the first time that the kids and I had mice on the menu. Frank, thinking that he was being funny held the plate out for Brandon and asked him if he wanted a mouse. Brandon being polite and a little excited grabbed a roasted mouse and put it on his plate. Frank took it back and told him that it was just for the adults. I served myself extra veggies and was relieved when there were 3 men at the table and only 3 mice. I politely left them for the men to eat. As the day went on both kids were clearly having some tummy troubles. I kept having to run them to the bathroom. Thankfully we had brought toilet paper with us. I have never been so thankful for TP as my kids and their upset tummies went through 2 rolls in a matter of hours. The non flushing restrooms I was familiar with in Zambia were all somewhat similar. Some had toilets to hover over but the bottoms had been knocked out so that it just dropped down like a porta potty. Some just had holes in the concrete floor, which are fine, but require a bit more aim. For Brandon, I would kind of step on his toes, hold his hands, and basically lower him over the hole. He didn't have the balance to squat over it himself. Maddie was so little at just 2 that I had to literally hover her over the hole and do the aiming for her. They were quite brave about not feeling well and having to constantly run to the restroom. As I was helping Brandon in the bathroom, I was looking at the floor. It was dirt. Just packed down dirt. I wondered how deep the hole had been dug. I wondered how thick the mud floor was, and I wondered how much stomping it would take for the floor to buckle and take us all the way down with it. This was definitely not my favorite part of the trip but when you have kiddos you just have to roll with the punches.
I was able to sit down with several family members and get information from them to help me fill in the gaps in the family tree I was working on. I was able to get the names of all Sly's Uncles and Aunts, all of his cousins, and all of his cousin's children. I've been working on gathering his family info since last year. I don't know that most of it has been written down and I want our children to have access to it as they get older. Sly does have a family member that has recorded some info about his father's side going back pretty far so I'm working on connecting all of the information he and I have gathered. His Uncle Glad was able to give me some info on the tribe and where his ancestors came from. This is information that has just been passed down from generation to generation and here I was sitting in a small village rapidly typing the information onto an ipad. Such a blessing to be able to learn more of my children's history.
It was time to say goodbye and head back to the Boma. The kids had to chase down the chickens that I was given because they would be traveling back with us to the city. Sly's nephew had handcrafted two little cages for the chickens out of reeds so that they wouldn't be running all about the car. We hugged and said our goodbyes to the family and the headman of the village that had come to meet us. As the family was singing us a parting song, Brandon ran back towards the houses. He took his shoes off and handed them to his cousin Caleb, smiled, and jumped into the car. We had brought a bunch of clothes, gifts, and groceries with us to leave for the family. I love that Brandon has such a little heart for giving. He was so proud to be able to share with his cousins. Madison decided to do the same so we drove back to the boma with our barefoot kids, our chickens, our fresh honey, and our bunches of mini bananas. Maddie was acting like she was super sleepy and just didn't really look like she had much energy. I chalked it up to her not feeling great and probably being exhausted from playing with all of her cousins all day.
As we arrived back to the Family in the Boma, we decided to leave the kids with the family while we returned the vehicle we had borrowed, bought some snacks for the trip in the morning, and ran a few errands. We arrived back home to find Madison in new clothes and freshly bathed. Brandon met us at the door and exclaimed "Madison threw up on Auntie!." Poor maddie, poor Auntie! Maddie was acting sleepy so she had wrapped her up on her back... which is where she was when she got sick. I'm lucky the family loves us, and I'm lucky she works at the hospital and isn't phased by such things. After that Maddie was clearly feeling much better. Brandon however went to bed saying he still didn't feel so great. We had a long trip ahead of us in the morning so we thanked and hugged everyone and headed to bed. The next day would be another day full of travel, adventure, and meeting even more of Sly's family.
to be continued...
It was time to say goodbye and head back to the Boma. The kids had to chase down the chickens that I was given because they would be traveling back with us to the city. Sly's nephew had handcrafted two little cages for the chickens out of reeds so that they wouldn't be running all about the car. We hugged and said our goodbyes to the family and the headman of the village that had come to meet us. As the family was singing us a parting song, Brandon ran back towards the houses. He took his shoes off and handed them to his cousin Caleb, smiled, and jumped into the car. We had brought a bunch of clothes, gifts, and groceries with us to leave for the family. I love that Brandon has such a little heart for giving. He was so proud to be able to share with his cousins. Madison decided to do the same so we drove back to the boma with our barefoot kids, our chickens, our fresh honey, and our bunches of mini bananas. Maddie was acting like she was super sleepy and just didn't really look like she had much energy. I chalked it up to her not feeling great and probably being exhausted from playing with all of her cousins all day.
As we arrived back to the Family in the Boma, we decided to leave the kids with the family while we returned the vehicle we had borrowed, bought some snacks for the trip in the morning, and ran a few errands. We arrived back home to find Madison in new clothes and freshly bathed. Brandon met us at the door and exclaimed "Madison threw up on Auntie!." Poor maddie, poor Auntie! Maddie was acting sleepy so she had wrapped her up on her back... which is where she was when she got sick. I'm lucky the family loves us, and I'm lucky she works at the hospital and isn't phased by such things. After that Maddie was clearly feeling much better. Brandon however went to bed saying he still didn't feel so great. We had a long trip ahead of us in the morning so we thanked and hugged everyone and headed to bed. The next day would be another day full of travel, adventure, and meeting even more of Sly's family.
to be continued...